The First Wave Is Never Perfect (And That's Perfectly Okay)
There's this idea that when you start something new—especially something as challenging as writing—you have to be perfect.
There's this idea that when you start something new—especially something as challenging as writing—you have to be perfect.
Surfing might look like a physical sport from the outside—and sure, it is. But deep down, it's about seeing the world differently.
When you see authors on social media effortlessly publishing bestsellers, it's easy to forget the struggle behind the scenes.
Surfing doesn't give you a choice about failure. You fall. Constantly. Sometimes in front of everyone. Here is what it taught me.
There’s a special kind of freedom that comes from being in the ocean. It’s not just physical; it’s a mental release unlike any other.
When I left the UK with a backpack and a camera, I didn't have surfing in mind. I was looking for stories, but found waves.